Avignon, a city steeped in history and Provençal charm, is best experienced beyond the usual tourist spots. To truly understand its essence, you need to explore its hidden corners, enjoy its local flavors, and embrace its relaxed pace of life. This guide will help you discover Avignon as a local would.
Start Your Day Like a Local
Begin your morning with a leisurely breakfast at a neighborhood café. Unlike the fast-paced breakfasts found in other parts of the world, mornings in Avignon are meant to be slow and enjoyable.
Head to Café Tulipe or Le Vintage Café for a simple yet satisfying French breakfast of fresh croissants, buttered baguettes with jam, and a café crème. If you prefer a more traditional experience, visit Boulangerie Violette to pick up a warm fougasse, a local Provençal bread often flavored with olives or herbs.
After breakfast, stroll through Les Halles d’Avignon, the city’s covered market. This is where locals shop for fresh produce, cheeses, meats, and spices. Grab some Banon cheese, a handful of Provençal olives, or a slice of pissaladière, a local onion and anchovy tart, to snack on later.
Explore Beyond the Tourist Spots
Most visitors head straight for the Palais des Papes, but locals know that some of the best views of the palace come from a quieter spot—Rocher des Doms. This peaceful garden sits atop a hill, offering panoramic views of the Rhône River and the famous Pont d’Avignon. Bring a book, relax by the pond, and soak in the serene atmosphere.
For a different perspective, walk across the Île de la Barthelasse, an island in the Rhône River accessible by foot or ferry. It’s a perfect place for a morning run, a picnic, or a quiet escape from the bustling city center.
Enjoy a Long, Leisurely Lunch
In Avignon, lunch is not just a meal—it’s an event. Locals take their time, often enjoying a multi-course meal with friends or family.
For an authentic experience, visit La Cuisine du Dimanche, a family-run restaurant serving traditional Provençal dishes like daube provençale (a slow-cooked beef stew) and papeton d’aubergine, a savory eggplant flan unique to Avignon. Pair your meal with a glass of Côtes du Rhône wine, one of the region’s specialties.
If you’re in the mood for something lighter, head to Ginette et Marcel, a charming bistro known for its delicious tartines (open-faced sandwiches) and homemade pastries.
Take an Afternoon Break
After lunch, follow the local tradition of la sieste—a short afternoon break, especially in the summer when the sun is at its peak. Many shops close for a few hours in the afternoon, making it the perfect time to relax in a shady park or sip a pastis, a classic Provençal anise-flavored aperitif, at an outdoor café.
If you prefer to stay active, visit the Musée Angladon, a small but fascinating museum that houses works by Van Gogh, Degas, and Cézanne. Unlike larger museums, this one offers an intimate, crowd-free experience.
Shop Like a Local
Instead of buying souvenirs from touristy shops, browse Avignon’s independent boutiques and markets. La Maison de Fogasses is a great place for unique clothing, home décor, and artisanal goods. For gourmet gifts, stop by Le Comptoir de Mathilde, which sells local chocolates, spreads, and flavored oils.
On Saturdays, visit the Marché de la Place Pie, where local artisans sell handmade crafts, jewelry, and textiles.
Dine Under the Stars
Dinner in Avignon is a relaxed affair, often enjoyed outdoors in one of the city’s lively squares.
For a true local experience, book a table at L’Agape, a modern bistro known for its creative use of Provençal ingredients. Their tasting menu showcases seasonal produce and local wines. If you prefer a more traditional setting, Le Petit Gourmand serves hearty Provençal dishes in a cozy atmosphere.
If you’re in the mood for an informal yet authentic experience, order a cheese and charcuterie board from AOC, a wine bar where locals gather to share a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and unwind.
Experience Avignon at Night
After dinner, take a nighttime stroll through the Place de l’Horloge, where street musicians and performers bring the city to life. Locals often gather at Le Vin Devant Soi, a wine bar where you can sample different Rhône Valley wines using a self-serve system.
If you’re visiting in July, don’t miss the Festival d’Avignon, one of Europe’s largest theater festivals, featuring performances in historic courtyards, streets, and hidden venues. Even outside of festival season, Théâtre du Chien Qui Fume offers fantastic local theater performances year-round.
For a relaxed end to the night, take a quiet walk along the Rhône River, watching the city lights reflect off the water.